Our first full day in Phnom Penh, a city where we’d be spending many full days in the future, naturally centered on the river that we were staying in front of. It wasn’t exactly the famed Mekong River, but the Sap River; but the Sap joins with the Mekong just a few hundred yards downstream from our hostel. And when you look out across the Sap River, you see the very narrow spit of land that separates the two rivers.

Life along the river(s) is vibrant at any time — but especially, of course, during special occasions and ceremonies, as was the case during our stay. Vendors were selling food and trinkets. Children were playing, men were playing a game with a ball, women were chatting, and monks in orange robes were monking. The boats on the river included a few little houseboats, which were actually more like house canoes, in which families apparently were living.

In the morning, Kimberly went running along the banks of the river, which was also running, and she may have won. Meanwhile, Dennis visited a few ATMs in a quest for a cash withdrawal that wouldn’t entail stiff fees. Ultimately, he succeeded somewhat. (It would not be until a subsequent visit to Cambodia that we’d be able to open an account in the most prominent local bank, which would eliminate the fees, virtually eliminate the need for cash, and make shopping ridiculously hassle-free.)

Then we had breakfast, which required going to the other part of the hostel, which was in another building across the street. In the lobby cafe, we were able to obtain hot water for our tea and oatmeal — not by heating it ourselves, but by requesting that the staff bring it from the kitchen, which they were happy to do at no charge.

After breakfast, we went scouting for a supermarket to stock up for the rest of the day, and the next day’s journey to our next destination. It was difficult to find what we needed, but we ultimately stumbled upon a decent little store that was part of a chain called Lucky — no similarity to the American supermarkets of the same name. First, however, we stumbled upon something else that demanded to be investigated: Wat Phnom.

Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom, meaning “hill temple” (the noun comes before the adjective in Khmer) is the historical and cultural heart of the city. The hill, which really isn’t that high, is nonetheless the king of the hill among hills in this town — in fact, it’s the only hill in this town. This is the hill from which Phnom Penh takes its name — Penh was the name of a legendary wealthy and influential widow who established the temple on top of the hill, reportedly constructed in the year 1372.

Admission to the hill temple complex is free for locals, and only a buck for foreigners — as we’d already learned, the U.S. dollar is accepted, and even preferred, as legal tender among Cambodians, along with the Cambodian riel. (One dollar is approximately 4100 riel, usually rounded to 4000 for convenience.)

Ascending the hill and exploring the temple structures, we of course saw many impressive architectural and decorative details. But there were also many places where visitors could leave money. Many, many places. And at one particular shrine dedicated to Lady Penh, where there were several female statues on display, visitors also left offerings — not of money, but of cosmetics.

Perhaps the most curious thing we saw, however, was a little shrine with a spinning wheel with lights — it resembled a wheel of fortune. It appears to be a variation on the Buddhist “prayer wheel”, though the latter are normally cylindrical. And inside the main temple, we saw a black cat wandering around, which we were not quite sure how to interpret.

In the afternoon, we went swimming in our hostel’s little rooftop pool. And then later we went back down to the river, where throngs of people had begun to congregate for the festivities. We weren’t aware of the occasion at the time, but as we’d learn later, the holiday was called Pchum Ben. It’s a festival, unique to Cambodia, at which Buddhists pay respect to their ancestors and give offerings to monks, who gladly accept them.

Experiencing Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh:

There was a little shrine down by the river at which celebrants were crowding to go inside and deposit food, incense, and flowers. Supposedly, during this time the gates of hell are opened, and the spirits of ancestors who weren’t exactly saints can come out, romp around, and maybe get a little redemption if people pray hard enough. (Interestingly, this holiday falls about the same time of year as a comparable western holiday: Halloween.)

We didn’t see any spirits on the prowl, but we did witness a very spirited spectacle that was a picture-perfect and quite memorable introduction to the Kingdom of Cambodia.

What it is: Pchum Ben is a 15-day festival observed by Cambodian Buddhists to honor and make merit for deceased ancestors. It roughly coincides with Halloween and is considered one of the most important holidays in Cambodia.

What to expect: During Pchum Ben, you’ll see increased activity at temples, especially along the riverside where you were. Families prepare offerings of food, incense, and flowers for their ancestors. Monks chant continuously throughout the festival.

Respectful Observation: While you might not witness any spirits, there will likely be a celebratory atmosphere. Be respectful of those practicing their religious traditions. Avoid loud noises or disruptive behavior near temples.

Participating (Optional): If you’d like to participate, you can observe the ceremonies or make a small donation to the monks. Some hostels or guesthouses might even offer guidance on respectful participation.

Additional Tips:

• Dates: Pchum Ben falls on the Khmer calendar, so the exact dates change every year. In 2024, it runs from October 1st to October 15th.
• Dress Code: Opt for modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees when visiting temples during Pchum Ben.
• Photography: It’s generally okay to take photos, but be mindful of those praying and avoid using flash photography inside temples.

10/2/2022