With some reluctance, we prepared to leave the picturesque city of Da Nang, where we’d spent only a couple of days – plus a couple of more days the previous month. With no reluctance at all, we left the hostel where we’d been staying. And even though the day was already rather warm, we schlepped our backpacks half a mile or so to the train station to depart for Ho Chi Minh City.

The station was packed with humans, though strangely enough few of them were waiting for the same train we were. But it was already quite full; and nearly all of the passengers aboard (at least 95 percent) were Vietnamese military personnel.

Scenes from the Train – day 1

And then we were off through the National Geographic-worthy countryside, decked out with fields and farmers, rivers, canals, marshes, hills, shanties, and water buffalo, among other things.

While we toted our own food along, the soldiers were catered to– and the meals looked surprisingly lavish. We saw only three or four other civilian passengers on the whole trip. Quite a few of the seats were taken up with large bags of military gear.

At one point, one of the soldiers lit up a cigarette next to us. This was the only time this happened, though we’re aware that smoking regulations in some countries are more lax than in most of the U.S. We don’t know if smoking was really allowed on the train, or if the transit company just cuts some slack to guys in uniform. Anyway, when he saw our involuntary reaction of disgust, he apologized and moved away.

It was an overnight journey, and the soldiers were issued blue blankets – which came from neatly folded and packaged bundles that presumably were more or less fresh from the laundry.

Since the car was air conditioned, a blanket turned out to be a boon at night. Kimberly, who gets gooseflesh easily, was prepared with extra layers of clothing. But Dennis, being much more amenable to cool weather, was in a skimpier wardrobe; ultimately he decided that a blanket could be useful, so he inquired with an attendant.

By this time, the bundles had all been used up, but the attendant brought him one that seemed to have been left over from a previous leg of the trip. It was wadded up and stashed on the shelf where the other blankets had been; probably, it had been used by another passenger, and possibly even trampled in the floor. So Dennis thanked him, but decided not to use it unless he got desperate. Later, he found another blanket that was folded up and apparently unused.

Scenes from the Train – day 2

The next day, after a few more hours of clattering through the quaint countryside, we pulled into Ho Chi Minh City – where the sign at the station still sported the city’s former name, Sai Gon (Saigon).

Arriving Sai Gon

With some difficulty, we snagged a ride to our Airbnb. It was a light, spacious studio apartment on the third floor with ample windows looking out on a thriving street scene in a pulsing neighborhood. We were set to enjoy a few days in the capital of Vietnam.

AirBnB in Ho Chi Minh

One thing, however, had us beginning our stay by scratching our heads. One of the signs posted in our apartments said (honest to Pete, this is verbatim): “DO NOT USE SCRAP, DRAP, LENGTH/ HANDLING, BLIND/ BLIND TO USE, FOOTWEAR, LAND, SON BLOOD”. While we can’t be certain, we don’t believe we broke any of those rules.

Ten Tips for Your Overnight Train Adventure in Vietnam

1. Book Tickets in Advance: Especially during peak seasons, train tickets can sell out quickly. It’s advisable to book your tickets well in advance, especially if you have specific preferences for seating or departure times.

2. Be Prepared for Crowds: The train can get quite crowded, especially during peak hours. Try to arrive early to secure a good seat or have a plan for storing your luggage.

3. Pack Light: The train doesn’t have a lot of storage space. Pack only the essentials to make your journey more comfortable.

4. Bring Food and Water: While the train has a dining car, it’s always a good idea to have your own snacks and drinks on hand. This can save you time and money, especially during busy periods.

5. Consider the Temperature: The train is air-conditioned, so bring a sweater or light jacket, especially if you’re sensitive to cold temperatures.

6. Be Respectful of Local Customs: Remember that you’re traveling in a different culture. Be mindful of local customs and traditions, and try to avoid any offensive behavior.

7. Enjoy the Scenery: The train journey offers stunning views of the Vietnamese countryside. Take some time to appreciate the scenery and capture some memorable photos.

8. Be Prepared for Delays: Train delays can occur, so be patient and flexible. Have a backup plan in case your arrival time is delayed.

9. Exchange Currency: Make sure you have enough Vietnamese Dong (VND) to cover your expenses during the journey. You can exchange currency at the train station or in the city.

10. Research Your Destination: Before arriving in Ho Chi Minh City, do some research on the city’s attractions, accommodations, and transportation options. This will help you make the most of your time there.

11/20-21/2022