There’s only one drawback to spending time on an island paradise like Cambodia’s Koh Rong Sanloem. It’s not that the weather was less than perfectly cooperative, which it was. It’s not that there were a few mosquitoes, which there were. It’s not that there were noisy and inconsiderate neighbors, which there were. It’s not that your roof might leak, which ours did. It’s not that it can be a challenge to satisfy our finicky diet, which it was. No, all of these things are minor inconveniences that we can take in stride — and hey, what kind of paradise is it if there aren’t a few challenges involved. No, the real problem is that sooner or later, you have to pack it up and head back to the mainland.

And so, all too soon our week comes to an end. On the last day, we try to get in one more round of snorkeling, but the water is the murkiest it’s been yet, so we don’t get to see much.

The housekeeper comes by to take care of a few odds and ends, and to say goodbye. She has her little boy with her, about a year or two of age, and the little tyke strides right up and gives us a hug. Like other toddlers we’ve seen running around on the island, he is not wearing pants, trousers, breeches, pantaloons, knickers, slacks, jeans nor anything else below the waist. Apparently, it’s a common practice to save on diapers.

It’s a day of excitement for the locals, because it’s the day — which comes once a week, we gather — when a boat from the mainland brings supplies for the little shops, including fresh produce. Just in time, as the larders at the stores have been getting rather bare lately, and the stash that remains is beginning to look scrawny and wilted. With great gusto, the delivery boys, who all seem to be about 15 or younger, come to meet the boat in carts pulled by motorbikes or special contraptions that look like farm machinery on Mars. They load up with sacks and boxes and jugs of merchandise, and haul it back to their respective establishments.

The next morning, the day of our departure, we’re a bit anxious, because the 9:00 ferry to the mainland has been running very erratically the past few days, leaving sometimes an hour late. It’s important for us not to be too tardy, because we have a train booked at 2:00 in the afternoon.

We head over to the dock to wait, and a man asks us if we have tickets. We do, as we had to buy a round trip when we came here — there is no ticket office here. He asks to see them, and we show them to him, and he takes them as if that’s what he’s supposed to do. It occurs to us that we should keep an eye on him, because we have no way of knowing that he is indeed some kind of employee. (He is.)

The boat arrives pretty much right on time for once, and we board and pull away from this little island that we’ve become quite fond of. And then it comes back to the island, but at a different port, where other passengers enter and exit. There are several such stops, giving us a glimpse of the resorts occupied by more upscale visitors. So what we’re seeing at no additional cost is the places we would have had to pay a pilot to take us to. And we’re glad we didn’t.

Back in Sihanoukville, we have plenty of time before our train departs, so we go to a mall to wait and do some shopping at the supermarket there for some snacks to eat on the trip.

Then it’s off to the train station, an open-air facility with just a roof — which is a good thing, because there is some rather heavy rain while we wait. After we’ve been there a while, and think surely the train should be pulling in any minute, we learn that it’s two hours late.

At last it comes, and when the passengers get off, we are astounded to see some familiar faces. One of them belongs to Kimberly’s second grade student, whom we’d run into a few days earlier in Phnom Penh. He is traveling with his parents (whom we’d met before) and his sister, who was in Dennis’s sixth grade class. She’s a wonderful student, the kind of student who makes teaching fun. (She’s the one who won the school’s public speaking competition, which we mentioned previously.)

After chatting with these folks briefly. we board the train and are off to Phnom Penh. Once again, the air conditioning is cranked up to the Extreme Survival Sports setting — though this time it gets turned off periodically, according to some pattern that seems to be just totally random. And the train has several more delays, so by the time we chug into the city, it’s 11:00 p.m., and we are 4 hours behind schedule.

From the station, we catch a tuk-tuk to an Airbnb, since we no longer have an apartment to come home to, and we’ll only be in town a couple of days. Then we’ll be saying farewell to Phnom Penh for good. Or at least for another year.

8/29-30/2024

Before You Go:

• Book Accommodation in Advance: Especially during peak season, the best bungalows and guesthouses get booked up quickly. Research different beaches (Saracen Bay is popular and generally calm, Lazy Beach is known for its relaxed vibe, and others offer more secluded experiences) and choose based on your preferences.
• Consider the Time of Year: The dry season (roughly November to May) generally offers the best weather with sunny skies and calm seas. The rainy season (June to October) can bring heavy rainfall and rougher waters, potentially affecting ferry schedules and activities.
• Pack Light and Smart: Island life is generally casual. Bring lightweight, breathable clothing, swimwear, and comfortable walking sandals or flip-flops. A light raincoat or umbrella might be useful, especially during shoulder seasons.
• Bring Insect Repellent: Mosquitoes and other biting insects can be present, particularly in the evenings. A good quality insect repellent is essential.
• Pack Sun Protection: The tropical sun is strong. Bring high SPF sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses.
• Cash is King (Mostly): While some of the larger resorts might accept cards, smaller establishments and local shops often prefer cash (USD or Cambodian Riel). Bring enough cash for your stay, including potential ferry delays or unexpected expenses. ATMs can be unreliable or non-existent on the island.
• Power Adapter (If Needed): Cambodia generally uses Type A, C, and G plugs (two flat pins, two round pins, and three rectangular pins). Check your devices and bring an adapter if necessary.
• Download Offline Maps and Information: Internet connectivity can be patchy on the island. Download offline maps and any essential information you might need beforehand.

During Your Stay:

• Embrace Island Time: Things move at a slower pace on the island. Be patient with service and transportation. Ferry schedules can sometimes be unpredictable, as you experienced.
• Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water throughout the day to avoid dehydration in the tropical climate.
• Be Mindful of Wildlife: Enjoy the natural beauty of the island but be respectful of the local flora and fauna. Avoid feeding animals.
• Respect Local Customs: While Koh Rong Sanloem is a tourist destination, it’s still important to be respectful of local customs and traditions. Dress modestly when visiting villages or religious sites.
• Be Prepared for Power Outages: Power outages can occasionally occur on the island. Consider bringing a portable power bank for your devices.
• Snorkeling and Diving: The waters around Koh Rong Sanloem offer excellent opportunities for snorkeling and diving. Choose reputable operators and be mindful of coral reefs.
• Explore Different Beaches: Each beach on Koh Rong Sanloem has its own unique charm. Consider taking a boat trip or hiking to explore different parts of the island.