Following the Fab Four’s Footsteps (and Flattening Ourselves for Bulls) in Rishikesh

Yet another school holiday — another another one — and we were beginning to wonder if they didn’t outnumber the days when classes were in session. Having spent a year teaching in Cambodia where the school holidays are scarce, we are a bit taken aback. But whatever, we once again have time off from volunteer teaching in Raiwala, and we’re prepared to use the time to take an outing we’ve been wanting to do since we got here two months ago: follow in the footsteps of the Beatles by touring the ashram in nearby Rishikesh where they studied transcendental meditation under Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in 1968.

Welcoming the early morning with a visit from the neighborhood Hornbill, Raiwala

After tuk-tukking into Rishikesh from Raiwala, we first stop at V Mart, where Kimberly purchases a coat and sweater to be prepared for the coming winter. Yes, in India — it is getting cold here, but it will be even colder where we’re headed later. Dennis doesn’t find one suitable for himself.

Then we walk back toward the colorful Janki Bridge across the Ganga (Ganges), which we’d crossed on our previous outing in Rishikesh. Near the bridge, we spot a pack of five monkeys (Tarai gray langur) the kind living on the other side of the river in the woods. They have created their own little playground, leaping back and forth between a motorcycle and a lamppost, including the baby of the lot.

Crossing the Ganges by foot on the Janki Bridge

Exploring the Beatles Ashram

At the former Beatles Ashram, which was actually called the International Academy Of Mediation, also known as Chaurasi Kutia, and is now part of the Rajaji Tiger Preserve, we pay our entrance fee (specially enhanced for foreigners) of 1200 rupees (about 14 dollars) per person, and go inside on a magical mystery tour.

The ashram was constructed in 1963 with funding from American philanthropist Doris Duke, who was — of all things — a tobacco heiress. It was abandoned about 30 years ago, so the structures have fallen into disrepair and have taken on the air of ancient ruins. Well, after all, the Sixties were pretty ancient, weren’t they.

The first thing that catches your eye is the array of stone domes that appear to have been transported from another planet. There are 84 of these, and thus the name Chaurasi Kutia, meaning — drumroll please — 84 domes. These were meditation cells, and they certainly have a transcendental air about them. If you go inside (as, of course, we do) you find that there are stairs leading down to another floor where spartan living quarters were located. At least the living quarters appear spartan now; maybe it was a downright cushy arrangement back in the day.

Maharishi & Transcendental Meditation

Up next is the Maharishi’s bungalow, which was more like a palace compared to the other dwellings here. The Maharishi (191? – 2008), a native of Jaipur, India, obtained a degree in physics before he became a devotee of mediation and then a master of meditation who introduced Transcendental Mediation to the rest of the world.

Like several of the other buildings in the complex, the interior walls of the Maharishi’s home have been adorned with graffiti and/ or unauthorized murals during the years the place lay fallow. But since these tended to be rather artistic, and to fit the theme quite nicely — butterflies, messages of peace and love, and likenesses of the Beatles, for instance — they’ve been left in place. Oh, and in our unguided tour of the master’s headquarters, we can’t resist taking a photo of his toilet.

Our itinerary also takes us to what is officially labeled as the Beatles Bungalow, but it isn’t really a bungalow at all. We only see a hive of small living quarters — not unlike a college dorm — surrounding a small stage and audience area surrounded by walls but roofless. In many parts of the compound, there is an inspire overview of the river.

Other points of interest include the sites of the post office — yes, those attending the meditation retreat could send and receive mail (though the wi-fi in those days really sucked) and the printing press, at which promotional materials for TM were printed for distribution all over the world.

When our stomachs begin to tell us that lunchtime is drawing rapidly nigh, we stop in at the canteen to see what’s on the menu. None too pleased by the potential fare, we elect to wait until we get back to the tourist street where there are restaurants to choose from.

But first, we take a peek next door in a little gallery displaying photos of some of the wildlife found in the region. But more important, there are photos of some of the pop culture figures who flocked to the ashram; in addition to the Beatles, we spot shots of singers Mike Love and Donovan, and actress Mia Farrow.

Birth of The White Album

The Beatles came to study for two months, but Ringo departed after 10 days, and Paul made his exit a few days thereafter. Only John and George stayed for two months as planned. And yet during their brief residence, the group wrote quite a few songs that became the core of what was later known as The White Album. George Harrison remained a practitioner of TM for his entire life. He also remained loyal to The Maharishi, even defending him against allegations that he had sexually exploited female students.

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After leaving the Ashram, we make our way toward the riverside restaurant where we’d eaten lunch previously. Along the way, we come upon two Japanese women — we know where they’re from because we hear them speaking in Japanese. So we can’t resist trying out our rusty Japanese on them (we’ve visited Japan twice, and learned a little of the language in preparation for those trips) and they are delighted to hear it. One of them happens to have a GoPro 12, just as we do.

After having another excellent lunch with a view overlooking the Ganges, we go on a couple of wild goose chases — one for an organic store, and one for an ayurvedic store, neither of which actually exists. Walking along the narrow passageway by the river, we suddenly spot four bulls charging toward us. There are often cows of various sorts on this path, but normally they travel in a leisurely fashion. But these appear to have spooked by something and are making a mad dash to who knows where. A man walking behind us pushes us back out of the way, and we flatten ourselves against the wall, hoping the bovines will mistake us for murals and charge on by without paying us any heed. They do, and from what we can tell, nobody is harmed in the stampede.

Before heading back home, we find a power adapter in an electrical store, and pick up some broccoli from a produce stand. Broccoli has been a rarity in these parts so far, so when we finally do spot it, we snatch it up.