Now that Kimberly had finished her two-month volunteer teaching stint in Raiwala, she was ready to head off to nearby Rishikesh, the yoga capital of the world, to undertake an intensive one-month course to be certified as a yoga instructor. Dennis, however, would stay behind in Rishikesh for three more weeks of teaching. It was to be the longest period of time we’d be separated in our entire 35 years together.

At about 10:00 Saturday morning, she finishes packing and we mosey down to the guard gate so someone there can call her a tuk-tuk. When the driver arrives, he tells us that he can take us all the way to Rishikesh for 400 rupees (about $4.75), but he cannot take us to Tapovan, the district where the yoga schools and ashrams are located, because it is zoned for a different line of vehicles. Still we accept his offer, because normally we’d have to ride one tuk-tuk from the school to Raiwala Junction, and then catch another one to Rishikesh. This saves us a step, and saves us money. We take the driver’s phone number so he can do the same with Dennis alone in 3 more weeks, after he has finished teaching.

Murals along the Highway in Raiwala

After he drops us off on a busy street in Rishikesh, then we have the task of getting a ride the rest of the way. Finding a tuk-tuk is never a problem in this area–the drivers swarm upon you like locusts. But avoiding a ripoff is another matter. Finally we arrange a lift for 200 rupees, and we have to do some haggling to get that; the driver originally wanted 400, even though it’s only a couple of miles and we’d just paid that amount to be driven 10 miles.

And even he doesn’t take us all the way to the yoga school. He can’t, because it’s on a little street that shoots up a steep hill, and the tuk-tuk just can’t tuk it. So we get out at the bottom of the hill and trudge up the street schlepping her bags, past local women carrying bundles of sticks and other things, and cows, who have no problem with the sharply inclined terrain.

As the scheduled check-in time is still a couple of hours away when we arrive at Vinyasa Yogashala, we expect to just drop off Kimberly’s gear and go strolling around town for a bit before returning to take care of business. But a few other incoming students also have assembled in the courtyard, and there is a fellow in the office prepared to check them all in. So we get the process completed ahead of schedule.

Arriving Rishikesh and checking in. I felt spoiled with 2 porters to tote my backpacks up to my room.

Then we carry her bags up to her room in Sadhna Hall, which has four bunks in it. One of the other occupants is already there. It looks like a comfortable enough room, and the shower features hot water (unlike many showers in India, including the one back at our apartment), though it takes her and her three roommates a day or two to find out how to operate it.

My room and the view from our shared balcony on the 2nd floor

Having thus deposited her, we stroll around and stop at one of the many organic grocery stores, buying, among other things some decaf coffee — which Dennis has been sorely craving since he ran out a few days ago, and it is unavailable in any of the Raiwala stores.

Next we go to lunch at the outdoor cafe where we ate before. Pumpkin soup and a green salad featuring sprouts and (unfortunately) beets. Quite yummy overall. Then, after scouting out the location of the Airbnb where we’ll rendezvous three weeks hence, we say our goodbyes for the first time in a long long time.

Vegan lunch at Ira’s Kitchen and Tea Room and a cool wavy brick building near Vanyasa Yogashala

Par for the course, Dennis has to do some finagling to get a tuk-tuk back home. Finally he finds a driver willing to take him all the way back to Raiwala for 500 rupees. But for part of the journey, there are other passengers, and the driver makes detours. One of them is to the train station, where the last two passengers, a couple with suitcases, are met by a man running out to tell them in Hindi that their train is getting ready to pull out at any moment. They hustle to meet it, and clamber aboard just in the nick of time. If only we all could “make our connections” this month; but as it turns out this is not quite the case. Kimberly will do so, in superb fashion, but Dennis… not so much.

Kimberly, meanwhile, settles into her bunk, moved her things into half of one of the two shared cupboards and meets her new roommates hailing from England, Netherlands and Spain.

Fire Ceremony: Igniting Our Yoga Journey in Rishikesh

KIMBERLY: The next day we ease into our program with initiation. Stepping into our Yoga Teacher Training Course, one of the first truly captivating experiences is the traditional fire ceremony, an ancient ritual designed to bless our journey and establish powerful intentions.

Almost all the students are dressed in white, as requested. As a full-time traveler whose worldly belongs need to fit into a backpack, my “ceremonial” outfit is a cherished white shirt from Cambodia paired with some light green pants (the only pants I own aside from my yoga pants). Except it’s so cold that I also wear my pink hoodie and layered my yoga pants underneath.

Opening fire ceremony and orientation. Some photos taken by the Vinyasa Yogashala photographer.

A small, contained fire pit is the focal point, its flames dancing, promising warmth and transformation. Our instructors guide us through the ritual, explaining its significance as an offering to the divine, a way to purify and invite auspicious beginnings.

One of the most memorable parts is the opportunity to participate directly. In small groups, we take turns approaching the sacred fire, each of us holding a small offering of aromatic herbs and golden ghee. As the chanting fills the air, we toss our offerings into the flickering flames. It’s intended to represent a physical manifestation of releasing old patterns and embracing new beginnings. And they tied a red and yellow string around our wrists to invoke blessings from deities and to ensure a positive and successful outcome. Wearing it serves as a constant reminder of the intentions set during the ceremony. It also symbolize the shared purpose and bond among participants.

After the ceremony and getting our “third eyes” , four of the teachers introduce themselves and address the group giving us the rundown of what to expect in the days ahead.

Every yoga course (of which there are many) in Rishikesh begins on the first of the month, which in December also happens to be a Sunday, our designated day of no classes. So after orientation I take advantage of some free time to get out and explore the neighborhood. I saunter down to the Ganga (Ganges) – enjoying the view but don’t stay long because one of the local women keeps harassing me, wanting me to buy something or other –I think some sort of offering for the Ganga, who knows. But she’s relentless and won’t leave my side, until I give up on finding any peace and quiet and leave.

View of to Topovan and the mountains – taken near Vinyasa Yogashala

Yoga Teacher Training Classes Officially Begins

KIMBERLY: The next day is the official start of classes. I am the first one up at 5:00 am to do some cardio and get some hot water before classes begin at 6:00. It’s still cold and dark and no one wants to get out of bed. We also have no heater in our room or in the studio where we take all of our classes.

We begin our lessons with a Hatha Yoga session. I think we are all happy that it’s a movement class so we can get warmed up. Then Pranayama (breathing), Anatomy (which I was not looking forward to, because it sounded like it was going to be hard and require some studying), Mantra Chanting, Philosophy, Vinyasa (another movement class) and Dhyana (meditation – which I was looking forward to because it sounded like it was going to be relaxing and after experiencing a 10 day silent meditation retreat the last time we came to India, I thought it would be a breeze).

The two movement classes are each an hour-and-half long and the five other classes are an hour. We have some time off for meals of course, and a bit of a break in the afternoon. Breakfast is served at 8:50 AM, lunch at 12:30 and dinner at 6:50 PM – all vegetarian meals with some options for vegans.

After lunch and before the next round of classes begins, I go out exploring my new neighborhood. This time I go up the hill, away from the Ganga where I discover a waterfall and on up a little farther I saw where they keep the bags for the mules that I’ve seen parading by my Yoga Shala before sunrise.

This promises to be a very magical month.

The photo of the whiteboard is from Dhyana class about the symbol for OM and what each piece of the Sanskrit means.

Events occurred 11/31-12/3/2024

Have you experienced anything like a Fire Ceremony? If yes, tell us what was most memorable for you in the comments below. If no, does it interest you? Would you like to experience it? Use the comment section, we’d love to hear from you!