When last we left our intrepid global explorers, they were in the midst of a three-week period in which they were living several miles apart — the longest interval of time they’d been separated in 35 years together. But there was nothing antagonistic in the apartness; Kimberly was in Rishikesh, the yoga capital of the world, undergoing intensive instruction as a yoga teacher. And Dennis stayed behind in the little town of Raiwala — where they’d both already spent two months as volunteer teachers — to fulfill his commitment to teach until December 20.

DENNIS: As I’ve mentioned before, Northern India in December can get as chilly as the reception of a drag queen at a tent revival; so I generally stay bundled up day and night. My unheated room gets almost no direct sunlight, but during the day I sometimes go for a stroll when the sun is on the prowl — although my custom has always been to avoid sun exposure — because, well, it’s warmer out there. Sometimes I am able to go into one of the other buildings like the gym — I saw a badminton competition going on there one day. Though also unheated, they all seem warmer than the cryogenic chamber I’m living in. It’s like the school saved up most of the cold and stocked it in one room.

The Daily Water Ritual

One thing that helps warm me up is getting a hot shower. Unfortunately, that’s on the unfulfilled wish list — there is no hot water in my estate. (Interestingly, workers were installing a water heater for the first time in the showers of the apartment I was recently booted out of.) So instead, I have to heat water and do a makeshift shower by standing in a pail and pouring hot water over me. This necessitates a bit of planning and preparation, because I’ve learned that almost every afternoon, the water supply either is shut off, or just runs out, sometimes for two or three hours. So earlier in the day, I fill a pail with water before that happens. When we were staying in the apartment, I remember standing on the balcony and seeing a couple of the security guards for the school and/ or the clinic where our apartment was located, getting out early in the morning and bathing themselves in the cold water straight from a hose. I admire their fortitude, but don’t yet feel inspired to follow their example myself. Try me again next week.

I heat up my water using either an electric kettle or an electric soup pot — I can’t use both, or else I’ll be without electricity for a while too. I bought the latter because, as I mentioned before, my new digs didn’t come with a kitchenette or any kind of cooking facilities. (I also bought the electric kettle much earlier, because the one we found in the apartment was a piece of crap.) And I was shuffled from the old apartment right after I’d stocked up on food, much of it perishable. (Ironically, the new occupants, like probably 90 percent of the people who stay there, don’t seem to have any interest in cooking their own meals. I very much do.)

Monkeys apparently are always hungry, because they are always lurking about on the alert for a handout, and will come scampering from miles around at the prospect of a crumb. There is no garbage service here, so combustible trash is burned on the school grounds, and compostable materials are just tossed in a heap behind the building. Sometimes I will go out with a collection of food scraps (sealed in a jar so as not to attract undue interest from any quarter) and dump them out. Even if there is no monkey visible anywhere when I go out, there will be a herd of them stampeding toward the offering by the time I am finished.

One day, when classes were on break, one of them sneaked into an open classroom and made off with a student’s lunchbox, which it struggled to open in vain. I made the mistake of trying to chase it, when the little bugger can, of course, go many places I can’t — like the roof. I thought I could startle it into dropping the booty, but I underestimated their attachment to their plundered groceries. And now, that lunchbox may never be found. Or if it is, it may be so far in the future that it will serve as a reeking time capsule.

Until the water runs again, the monkeys behave, and someone installs hot showers—I’ll keep pouring warmth over my head one kettle at a time.

Meanwhile, miles away in the yoga capital, Kimberly’s journey was taking a very different, albeit equally adventurous, turn.

Yoga Festival in the Yoga Capital

KIMBERLY: What do students training to be yoga teachers do on their day off? Why, go to a Yoga Festival to take more yoga classes, of course! So after a typical 6 day week of Hatha Yoga and Pranayama (breathing) before breakfast, followed by classes in Anatomy, Adjustment and Alignment, Philosophy, Ashtanga and Meditation, we are looking forward to Sunday and an opportunity to participate in the Yoga Festival. Up before the sun, we are off to the festival location on the other side of the river. First Hatha Yoga at sunrise right next to the Ganga River.

Followed by a fire ceremony and breakfast served on the floor by barefoot monks. Notice the circular pieces in the fire pit we are all gathered around? Why, those are dried cow chips, of course. During the ceremony we toss Havan on to the flames, which is a mix of ghee and 52 different herbs. The herbs produce oxygen, purifying the environment. The offerings symbolize a surrender of attachments and desires. The fire represents the mouth of the universe. In Vedic tradition it is believed to purify both the offerings and the participants, symbolizing a transformation and letting go of negativity. We also chant “swaha” which translates to “Please receive, burn my ego so I can learn”.

Then on to .. more yoga classes. There are several options, and I opt for Laughter Yoga. But before it begins I meet this lady and discover that we both have been living out of a backpack and trotting around the globe since November 2021. I feel I have found a kindred spirit. Her motivation for doing so, however, is rather different from mine. She left Kyiv, Ukraine because of the bombing and decided to make lemonade out of some extremely sour lemons. I find her story quite inspiring — she is traveling the world seeking peace and serenity.

Laughter Yoga

I, along with one other student from my program, attend this session of laughter yoga. It turns out to be not his cup of tea, but I enjoy every minute of it. No language required, so people from all over the world are on even footing. What’s not to love about having permission to enjoy joy — and just laugh like a bunch of maniacs?

There are more classes on tap, but I decide I’ve had a full day and want to do some studying for the upcoming exam, so I just head back across the river to the Yogashala for lunch. I walk with a student who is also studying there but is in a different course. Our two groups typically join up for outings so her face is familiar. We have a wonderful time getting to know one another as we stroll through town and catch the ferry back to our side of the river.

Acro Yoga on the Beach

The next day we are treated to another outing included in our Yoga Teacher Training program. This time we are heading to a beach to greet the rising sun and visit a meditation cave. So we strike out on another winding twisting road that prompts passengers who are prone to motion sickness to turn green. I somehow end up in the window seat at the front next to the driver, which provides a great view and is fun, because how often do you get an opportunity to ride next to the bus driver in the States.

When we arrive at the beach we got a few moments to enjoy the view. The pack mules catch my eye as well as the mist raising from the river and the overall sense of peacefulness. I’ve been curious about the mules, since I’ve been seeing them traipse by my room every morning at dawn down the hill to who knew where. Now I’m able to see what these pack mules have been carrying. Their handlers are loading gravel and rocks into their packs.

We then do a bit of yoga on the beach, followed by a brief lesson in Acro Yoga, also known as Partner Yoga — and as these names suggest, it involves two partners doing yoga poses that are… well, rather acrobatic. I have studied Acro Yoga on and off throughout the years, and I love it. Dennis and I have done our share of classes and learned a number of poses, so I am eager to participate. However, I find the instruction during this session to be rushed and not informative enough to avoid injuries. With the presence of the studio photographer it feels more like a publicity stunt than a true introductory lesson. In fact, a couple of the participants do sustain minor injuries that could have easily been prevented.

Meditation Cave

Then there is a cave experience, in which two monks(?) are chanting and doing a ritual with flowers, water, and oil in the cave. No shoes and photos allowed. Meanwhile our stomachs growl, as those of us who were fasting, have not eaten dinner the night before. We have to duck out before they finish, which felt a bit disrespectful, but it was time to go.

After our bus pulls out, we discover that we’ve somehow left something valuable behind: one of the students, who had wandered off by herself. Turning the bus around on those narrow roads to go back and fetch her is quite a feat.

Sound Healing Session

Huh? What is sound healing? That’s the question most of us are asking ourselves. But seeing as how we are all here to push limits and learn new things we are all game. There is a guest teacher who arrives with a series of bowls, chimes and other things that fill the spaces with delightful audio. Before the session begins, we’re given flower petals that we pile in a decorative(?) pattern next to our mats. My creation ended up looking more like a blob then the artful piece that adorned the center of the room. Then we lie down and let the sounds wash over us. It’s one of the most relaxing experiences I have ever had.

Additionally, we each have a session of trauma healing and a massage. All included in the 200-hour Yoga Teacher Training program by Vinyasa Yogashala. The trauma healing is an intense session of deep tissue massage, that really feels good when it’s over. The other massage is just pleasant and feels well deserved after surviving all of the physically demanding yoga classes we’ve endured.

Though living several miles apart and living vastly different daily lives this month, both of our journeys speak to the adaptability of the human spirit and the diverse, often surprising, ways India leaves its indelible mark.

Events occurred 12/14-16/2024

What unique or challenging travel experiences have left the biggest impression on you? Share your story or comments below.