Beyond the Town Square: Discovering the Secret Saffron Fields of Valašské Klobouky

Wild Crocus Saffron Valašské Klobouky Czech Republic

Our days of volunteering in Valašské Klobouky, Czechia were a reminder that while it’s easy to find the distinctive historical and cultural markers in the places you visit, sometimes getting acquainted with the locals will help you uncover hidden gems that you might have overlooked. And such was the case with us, when the director of the school where we were teaching directed us to a protected little patch of uncommon saffron flowers on the outskirts of town that we had heard about, but might not have been able to find otherwise.

The main points of interest you’re likely to spot in town include the cemetery and the town square with a number of wooden statues apparently depicting folk figures. There’s the Old Town Hall, dating back to at least 1567, a building that now serves as the town museum. And in front of it is a pillory pf about the same age, a remnant of the good old days of the penal system for crime, And there’s a log cabin that was once a homestead and is now a historical preservation center.

But these are the obvious attractions. One of the more memorable images for us, however, is a botanical treasure rather than a historical one: a field, or rather a large patch, of saffron flowers. Or more accurately of crocus flowers, whose slender reddish tongues are used to make the expensive seasoning.

This is not a particularly abundant crop in Czechia; and crop is the key word. Whatever crocus blossoms are grown in the country are generally cultivated. To see them growing out in the wild is rather uncommon. And thus, this little stretch of maybe a couple of acres is designated as a preserve, protected by the government. Kimberly had read about it before we came here, and was hoping to see it. And here it is.

There are plaques posted out front, but we initially don’t take the time to decipher them, because we’re eager to get close and personal with the flowers. These little lavender splotches are a feast for the eyes even when viewed from some distance. But the more closely you examine them, the more fascinating they become. Exquisite little floral haiku with 6 petals, 3 stigmas and 3 stamens. Which seems like just the perfect number.

And after we’ve spent a goodly amount of time being enamored of the flowers, we go out to do a translation of the plaques. And that’s when we discover that the penalty for disturbing the blossoms can be as high as 10,000 crowns (487 dollars). Each. Of course, we have not really disturbed them — we haven’t even touched any of them. But we did stroll out in their midst. Would the authorities consider that ample grounds to put is in that pillory downtown? We doubt that it would be considered an offense, though we can’t be certain, since our guide, the school director, has dropped us off, and then gone on to take care of some business.

But it’s a pointed reminder that you need to be careful when visiting such sites. And maybe it’s a good idea to read the plaques first, just to make sure you don’t run afoul of any regulations, restrictions, stipulations or taboos.

Then we hike back home, a distance of a mile or two, getting a panoramic view of the town that looks like something out of second grade reading book about life in Happy Valley. Complete with all the requisite livestock, including goats, and even a flock of turkeys.

Back at the school the next day, the kindergartners, in their rural facility called The Forest, are engaged in planting flowers, helping by hauling soil in little wheelbarrows and toy trucks. Maybe they are, in more ways than one, planting the seeds for the future of their community. Maybe on some future date we’ll return to Valašské Klobouky and marvel at what has sprouted from their efforts.

Events occurred: 3/23 – 25/2025

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