On Thursday September 29, we took a long leisurely ride on one of the longboats that thread their way through Bangkok’s many canals. Our destination was one of the city’s top tourist attractions: Wat Saket, also known as Golden Mount. More precisely, Wat Saket is the temple, and Golden Mount is the hill it sits on.

Wat Saket, The Golden Mount

This is the only real hill in the city — the locals refer to it as a mountain, and it’s not hard to see why, considering how level the rest of the landscape is. So it provides one of the best panoramic views around. Did we say real hill? Actually, it’s a fake hill. Which is to say it’s manmade — and the men who made it did so in part by accident.

It was intended to be a “chedi” — a dome in which religious relics are housed. Its construction was begun about 250 years ago, but it was never completed; being composed of brick and mud, it collapsed during construction, and was abandoned. During the ensuing years, it became compacted and overgrown, and — voila — you got yourself a hill. At the time, being outside the city limits, it was used as a corpse disposal site, and thus attracted a thriving and happy community of buzzards.

Later, the hill was further hill-ified and the temple with a golden chedi was constructed on top. The base of the “mountain is reinforced with stone to prevent any further landslides. And then about a century ago, this wat was built on top of the hill and capped off with a golden-ish dome.

At the base of the hill and the temple complex is something that looks like a grotto, with several historic items exhibited, some of them purportedly dating back to The Buddha himself. There are several Buddha statues with various nicknames, including the Lucky Buddha and the Happy Buddha. Oh, and at the entrance there are the iconic three monkeys with hands covering separate facial features.

As we climbed to the top of the hill, we came to an open sanctum that was very ornate inside. The interior was serene and inviting, and it was hard to resist entering and doing what one normally does in such places — meditate, pray, sit in silent contemplation, snooze, or think about what to have for dinner.

After touring the Golden Mount, we headed back home on another longboat, taking notice along the way of the canal-side shanties of rusty corrugated tin that some people live in, a stark contrast to the spiffy modern skyscrapers looming in the distance.

And speaking of modernity, after we arrived back home, we sought out another mall — not the same one we’d been to previously — with three objectives in mind: to find a place that does printing so we could get hard copies of our visa for Cambodia (check); to find some new sandals for Dennis (check); and to find an additional external drive for Kimberly’s computer (check).

So then we had the paperwork to explore a new country, the proper footwear to explore it in, and a place to store the endless stream of photos that Kimberly would be taking of the sites and sights there.

Know Before You Go to Wat Saket

• Lucky Lottery Numbers: Legend says praying at a specific Buddha statue at Wat Saket can bring good luck in the lottery. See if you can spot it!
• Monkeys with Meaning: At the entrance, look for the three monkey statues – a symbol representing “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”
• Cremation Site History: The base of the Golden Mount was once a cremation ground. Understanding this adds another layer to the site’s history.
• Climbing Options: There are 377 steps to reach the top. For those who prefer, a funicular railway is available for a small fee.
• Respectful Dress: While Bangkok has relaxed dress codes, it’s always respectful to cover shoulders and knees when entering religious sites like Wat Saket.

Travel Tips for First Time Visitors to Wat Saket:

• Go Early or Late: The climb can get hot, so consider visiting early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
• Bring Water: Especially during hot weather, staying hydrated is important.
• Bargain for Souvenirs: There are often vendors selling souvenirs near the temple. Don’t be afraid to politely bargain for a good price.
• Combine with a Canal Tour: Many boat tours include a stop at Wat Saket, allowing you to experience both the temple and Bangkok’s canals.

9/29/2022