The Full Moon Festival is held, appropriately enough, once every month in Hoi An, Vietnam. It’s rooted in traditions reaching back about five centuries or more, with connections to Buddhism and other spiritual disciplines. It’s a time of reflection and expressions of gratitude and well wishing, punctuated by the lighting of many lanterns and candles. And we were fortunate enough to be in Hoi An during the part of one month when the occasion was observed. So observe we did.

Of course, while the festival added some zing, Hoi An is quite festive at any time, day or night. Just strolling around, glimpsing the boats on the river and the vendors selling their wares, and the women cooking food outdoors, and the men playing board games, and the children cavorting and the seniors just taking it all in, you can almost get a lifetime of eyefuls in one day.

One thing we thought would be really cool to do on this occasion, or at any other time, would be to attend a theatrical performance of traditional Vietnamese music, dance and/or other performance arts. So we made our way to the Lune Center for the Performing Arts, a rustic and picturesque bamboo dome, where such presentations are staged.

But alas, we could not align the performance schedule of the production we wanted to see with our own schedule and ticket availability. So another time, we hope.

Browsing through the marketplace, we came upon a stall that sold reading glasses — an item that has been unbelievably hard to obtain in just about every country we’ve visited. Apparently, buying cheap over-the-counter reading glasses is a thing only in the U.S. (Well, surely you can also do it in China, where they’re made.)

But this fellow had them. And even more astounding, he had the exact magnification (3.00) that Dennis had been looking for. So we decided we’d better snag a pair. In the process, we had another go at bargaining, and this time we were successful — we talked him down from his initial price of 300,000 dong (about 12 dollars) to half of that. Which is probably still high for Vietnam, but they were good quality glasses.

There was also a little shop that sold various varieties of luggage and bags; and Kimberly spotted a bag there that looked really practical and durable. When she inquired about the price, the sales lady said it was also 300,000 dong. Kimberly didn’t buy it then, but after thinking it over, decided to go back later to make the purchase. But this time a different sales lady was on duty, and she informed us that the bag had been mispriced, and actually should be 600,000 dong.

So that deal fell through. And we’d missed the opportunity to get it at a bargain because we’d ignored the first of the “rules of the road” we’d compiled during our 30 years of touring the U.S. — namely, “get it while you can”.

At one point we came upon a donation box to benefit victims of Agent Orange, which is still leaving its deadly aftermath decades later. Vietnam appears to be a thriving and happy nation these days, but every now and then you happen upon a stark reminder of the tragedy and devastation that ravaged the country and the whole region during the war. Hoi An is only a few miles away from the site of the My Lai Massacre; and one day maybe we’ll swing by there to pay our respects at the monument.

Hoi An Full Moon Festival

But the mood was all merriment in Hoi An, as it usually is; and as splendid as the town is under normal conditions, during the Full Moon Festival the splendor is amplified as in a house of mirrors. There are more lanterns on the river than usual, as well as on houses and everywhere else; and the lanterns were more ornate and exquisite. Additionally, people light candles and set them afloat on the water, each little flame representing a wish.

All of these lights illuminate a serene, enchanted landscape of locals and tourists celebrating with music, food, and laughter. This was the kind of scene we traveled halfway around the world to witness.

Key Points About the Mid-Autumn Festival

• Timing: Typically falls in September or early October, on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month.
• Focus: Primarily a children’s festival, filled with joy, lanterns, and traditional games.  

Celebrations

• Lanterns: Children carry colorful lanterns shaped like animals, stars, or moons.
• Mooncakes: These sweet treats are shared among family and friends.  
• Lion and Dragon Dances: Energetic performances that bring good luck.
• Folklore and Legends: Stories about the moon goddess and the origin of the festival are told.

Other Full Moon Celebrations

While not as grand as the Mid-Autumn Festival, other Full Moon celebrations occur throughout the year in Vietnam, particularly in coastal areas and regions with strong Buddhist influences. These often involve:

• Religious ceremonies: Prayers, offerings, and meditation.
• Traditional foods: Special dishes associated with the lunar cycle.
• Community gatherings: Picnics, boat races, and local performances.

Tips for Experiencing Full Moon Festivals

• Research: Check the lunar calendar to determine the dates of Full Moon Festivals during your trip.
• Flexibility: Be prepared for changes in schedules and unexpected events.
• Immersion: Engage with locals, try local foods, and participate in traditions.  
• Respect: Dress modestly and be mindful of local customs.

11/5-7/2022