With a two-day pass to Prague Castle, we of course return for a second day of taking in this massive, centuries-old fortification that encompasses numerous historical sites.

This time we show up early enough to get inside the gate early enough to station ourselves in a good position early enough to get a good view of the Changing Of The Guard ceremony, which we saw from the outside the day before. Only a handful of spectators on hand when we arrive, so we can stake out our choice vantage point before the crowd thickens. We talk to a young soldier, who tells us that the sentries out at the gate work in shifts of 2 to 5 hours, but only spend one hour at a time stationed at the gate.

A seven-piece military band assumes its positions in windows in front of us, on the other side of the courtyard. They strike up a rousing tune or two or three as about 15 soldiers in dress blues march in through the gate, as we had seen them do previously. (One of these soldiers is female. You go, girl.)

They undergo a ritual with the flag, and with what looks like a cursory military inspection by an officer, and then the three soldiers who will be installing the new sentries at their posts march out through the gate. And that’s about all there is to it. But we wouldn’t have wanted to miss it for anything.

Next on our itinerary is St. George’s Basilica, the oldest church in the city, having been built in the year 920. It isn’t nearly as big as St. Vitus, which is also withing the castle grounds, but its Romanesque architecture and reddish brown facade are quite striking.

Then we move on to the Old Royal Palace, which dates back to 1135. Unlike many other palaces, this one hasn’t made much of an effort to present a semblance of an impression that royalty actually could be living there. There are few furnishings or luxurious trappings in evidence, just mostly the bare bones. One interesting feature is the large ceramic stoves for heating that are built into the walls.

The most noteworthy of the various chambers is Vladislav Hall, which features a vaulted ceiling and was the site of coronations and other grand royal ceremonies (and to stress that point, there’s a replica of the crown on display). And in modern times, it’s been used to swear in the presidents of the republic. It also hosted indoor jousting, and there is a special staircase that enable horses to make their way up here.

Another hall we poke through is the Bohemian Chancellery, which is home of perhaps the most consequential window in European history. Nothing particularly fancy about the window itself, mind you. But it was here where we are standing that in May 1618, a group of angry Protestant nobles threw three officials of the Hapsburg emperor out this very window. Even though the drop was about 70 feet, the men were not seriously hurt. Many called it a miracle, and in a way they are right — the falling fellows landed in a moat filled with manure. For once, it was actually a good thing to be in deep doo-doo.

But even though there were no immediate casualties from the defenestration, there would be plenty of lives lost later as a result. Because this little incident is credited with sparking the Thirty Years War, which lasted… well you know.

Wrapping up our second day at the castle, we head back down the hill and soon stumble upon the King of Brabant Tavern, which is touted as the oldest pub in Prague, dating back to 1375. It’s a medieval-style tavern that hosts themed shows with music, costumes, and performances, recreating the atmosphere of the Middle Ages — or a modern fantasy thereof. It’s hard to miss, because its exterior features a mannequin clad in medieval garb extending his hand through a barred window, as if soliciting a crown or two for some liquid refreshment.

Our stroll back home takes us past more classic architecture, the medieval Charles Bridge, and a few other touches of antiquity. As well as a modern bronze sculpture that looks like a couple of giant faceless babies. Prague certainly has a variety of sights.

Events occurred: 4/3/2025